![]() Bikes with slack head tube angles with a trail equal to X have more wheel flop that bikes with steep head tube angles with trail equal to X. You'll find that HTA changes have a HUGE impact on wheel flop - that's what I believe the OP is describing - and Offset of the fork (rake) not so much. ![]() This article is more focused on these topics from a road bike standpoint (so the absolute numbers might be off for mtb applications), but they're still generally meaningful in relation to mtb's as being descriptive of how these aspects of geometry affect handling.Īgain, consider manufacturer recommendations when looking at your setup.Ĭheck out this calculator to get trail and flop numbers, then play with changing HTA and Offset. They definitely affect steering characteristics of a bike. Wheel flop issues are related to head tube angle, but also to fork offset (oftentimes referred to as rake on rigid forks). If your rigid fork has the a-c that's the same of the unsagged a-c of a suspension fork, you'll effectively be slackening the bike even more than the manufacturer's specifications. If they recommend axle-crown length for suspension forks, it's important to note the "sagged" a-c if you are looking to install a rigid fork. You might want to consider the fork geometry that Soma recommends for that bike (axle-crown length and offset). But I had to ask here.Am I on the right track or should I just work on my skills more and quit blaming the frame? I am rockin 720 bars and an 80 mm stem in case anyone wonders.įork geometry might be something relevant to consider changing, as it can absolutely affect the handling of the bike. I think I am going to swap all my components over to a cheaper aluminum XC frame I got laying around with a 72 HTA and go try it. Obviously this is due to my extra relaxed HTA+ the fork rake. It reminds me of sitting on a chopper with a raked fork and letting the bars go and the front wheel falls to the side. But lately I noticed that when I ride on the city streets where I live, if I relax my hands on the bars and slightly "influence" them (if you know what I mean) the wheel wants to flop one way or the other pretty hard. I have always chalked this up to my inexperience and that may very well be what it is. I also notice that I tend to over shoot tight turns at speed frequently and end up brushing trees or in the grass before I get back on the track. The steering has always felt just "unsteady" and it can be a little unnerving when approaching a ditch crossing or other obstacle that requires a steady straight wheel. ![]() I have always felt unsteady on tight single track and around obstacles such as bridge crossing or log rail type technical stuff. I have been riding this bike for 2 years. I have a Salsa Cromoto grande steel fork on it as well. I have a Soma B Side v3 with a headtube angle around 67-68 degrees.
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